The Birth of Hollywood Glamour

The Hollywood Museum is a place every makeup artist and aspiring makeup artist should visit.  Formally known as Max Factor Make-Up Studio, the history of beauty that lies between those walls is astonishing. Max Factor was the creator of modern day makeup and responsible for so many iconic looks we try to mimic today.  In that building Marilyn Monroe was transformed into a platinum blonde and Lucille Ball became a permanent red head.  From creating his own color theory he called, Color Harmony, to being the first to ever use celebrities in advertisements, Max Factor began a makeup revolution and changed how the world viewed cosmetics.

Many artist today can relate to Max Factor's story. He had big dreams and accomplished each one with a business mind, passion and a drive to change how everyone viewed cosmetics. He was forced into becoming an apprentice for a wig maker and cosmetician at the age of 8. At the age of 24, and with the knowledge he had gained from cosmetics, he disguised himself to look ill in hopes to be freed from the Royal Family. His disguise worked and he was sent to Germany. There he began a new life and opened his first barber shop and cosmetic store where he sold cosmetics he made and the theatrical cosmetics he had used for many years, better known as “grease paints”. In 1904 his dreams grew bigger and he set out to conquer America; “The land of opportunity”. He settled his family in St Louise, but by 1908 he was ready to show the film makers in Hollywood how cosmetics could turn their actors into stars.

A true cosmetic innovator, Max Factor is responsible for the creation of lip gloss, false eyelashes, foundation, waterproof makeup, body paint, and so much more. Makes one wonder where the world of cosmetics would be without him.

There was so much information to take in at the museum I couldn't possibly share it all. I have compiled a  list of a few of my favorite facts and pictures. I hope you learn something and your passion for the world of makeup grows even more!

 

 This is an example of a makeup kit Max Factor would use and would also personalize for his star clients. In 1914 he creates  and perfects 12 shades of  cream foundation. Movie stars become instant fans of the product. It was the first natural looking makeup anyone had ever worn. 

 The first false eye lashes were applied to silent film actress Phyllis Haver. Factor wanted to create longer lashes and make the eyes appear larger. They soon became a request by other starlets.

 

In 1918 Max Factor creates “Color Harmony” he wanted to create a science to cosmetics. He felt he had discovered how to match each woman with the perfect shade depending on her skin tone and hair color under studio lights. It’s the theory he used to create each starlet’s signature look. When he opened the Max Factor makeup studio he had rooms labeled "For Blonde's Only", "For Brunette's Only", etc.. Each room had specific lighting for each skin tone. He would take the actress into each room to determine her perfect color and what cosmetics complimented her best.

 

 

1920 Max factor releases cosmetics to the public and refers to it as Society Make-Up. This played a part in the 1920 era of feminism. To wear make-up was to go against how a "proper" woman should look . Cosmetics was to only be worn in theater and by prostitutes. Many spoke out on the “evils” in make-up including the government and the pope. this is topic I could make a whole blog post about, and I probably will one day.

Max Factor was the first to use celebrities in advertisements. He paid the actresses $1 and promoted the film in which they stared in his ad's. Today celebrities make millions in company endorsement deals. 

In 1926 the first waterproof theatrical makeup was created for the silent film Mare Nostrum. A more advanced waterproof makeup made for every day woman was introduced by the company in 1971.

In 1929 Max Factor is recognized for his contribution to film by the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Science at the first Academy Awards.

In 1932 Max Factor created the "Beauty Calibrator". Viewing everything as a science, he wanted to create an instrument to obtain the perfect measurements of the face. He felt he had found a way to get the exact placement for contour and color. This was not one of his successful ventures. Although a master on the science of cosmetics the "Beauty Calibrator" proved to not be effective on everyone. Could you imagine using this to contour?

      In 1933 the first body paint is introduced. This of course is a more successful venture for the Max Factor brand. Today body painting is considered an advanced makeup art form.

 

In 1938 Max Factor dies at home in Beverly Hills and leaves his legacy to his son Francis, who would go on to change his name to Max Factor Jr. Francis had worked alongside his father through the years and carried on the tradition of making innovative products in the world of cosmetics and film. Hal King was assigned creative director and would go on to work with starlets of future decades such as Lucille Ball,  Judy Garland, Marilyn Monroe, Jane Mansfield and many more. Although the Max Factor brand was sold to Proctor and Gamble in 1973, it went on to be home to some of the most innovative artist to date. The last creative director of the company  was, Pat McGrath, one of the most influential makeup artists of today.

 

For more information visit the Hollywood Museum at 1666 Highland Ave. Los Angeles, CA. Admission is $15 for adults, which is a small price to pay for 4 floors of history.  As a non profit organization, visiting and supporting the museum is a way to keep the history and legacy of Max Factor and all he did for the cosmetic industry alive.

 

Marc Harvey- Airbrush Makeup Expert and Innovater

By now everyone has heard of airbrush makeup. It has become a phenomenon in all fields of makeup artistry, and some would even say a skill required for all makeup artist. It is technique often requested by TV, Film, bridal, and for special makeup effects.  

Marc Harvey can be considered an expert on this sought after skill due to his extensive success in the products he has been associated with and the praise he has garnered from his peers of top makeup artist. You may have caught the very popular infomercials that are played late at night or a segment on the Home Shopping Network.  If so, Marc is a face you should be familiar with. As a spokesperson for one of the top brands, Luminess Air, he catapulted the popularity and success for this at home system.  He has gone on to create the airbrush makeup line, ElemenTwo, which has been used in top films; such as The Hunger Games, and on magazine covers, celebrities and television networks around the world.  His newest venture is a product he is proud enough of to bare is name, Marc Harvey Beauty.

Beauty by Bueno caught up with Marc on his recent trip to Los Angeles, where he was in town to glam up some of his clients for the Espy Awards. I have been a fan of ElementTwo for years, so I was excited to hear Marc was coming out with a new even better product.  Yes, he even let me try some of the Marc Harvey Beauty line, and I can’t wait to add them to my kit! I truly believe this product is going to be a ‘must have’ in every artist's kit. Be on the lookout for a review on the new products soon, but for now enjoy getting to know a little bit more about Marc Harvey.

 

How did you begin your career as a makeup artist?

 Marc Harvey:  I was in the marketing industry, nothing to do with makeup. I was doing makeup as a hobby for my girlfriends and my sister who was a model.  Through her I worked with modeling agencies and with all the models. About 8 years ago, my mentor, Tisha, asked me if I wanted to take over her position at Millennium Modeling Agency as director. She did everything there, she was the teacher, makeup Artist, runway coach, confidence builder for the girls. I was like, ‘Woah! That’s a lot’. But, that’s how I got started.  I took a leap of faith and said, 'ok I’m going to do this'. The rest is History. After I became director I started booking fashion shows, bridal magazines, and other productions.

 

 How did you reach celebrity status?

MH:  That’s a good question, because it just kind of happened. I want to say I owe it to my personality. I’ve never just been a makeup artist I’ve always been a bit of a personality myself. After leaving Millennium Models I began working for Bobbi Brown and from there I started working for Luminess Air. I came on as director for Luminess, and using my marketing expertise  I took the brand  to the next level. When I came on it was only an infomercial product. I wrote proposals to Saks; I wrote proposals to Nordstrom, and that’s how Luminess got into retail and on the Home Shopping Network (HSN). That’s what really took me to the next level- doing the infomercials, being on air, bloggers like yourself wanting to interview me, and my peers in the industry. Top artist started asking me more about airbrush and asked me to go and work with them.

 

  What would you say has been the biggest obstacle you have had to overcome in your career?

MH: Even though we are in 2014, it’s still hard being a black man in the industry.  I ask aspiring artist and pro artist all the time, name me 3 top African American male makeup artist? And, they can’t. Everyone knows one, Sam Fine, and he is an amazing one to know, but who else can you name?  Same goes for black females. Again, everyone can just name one, Pat McGrath. Both amazing artist, but who else?  It’s as if the up and coming black artist get no attention. I do believe it is where we are in our culture, and also in a female dominate industry. When Lumniess got with HSN, The owner of Luniness wanted to hire a female, blonde and blue eyed as the spokesperson.  HSN spoke out and said 'No, Marc is your spokesperson. We want him on the show, he’s the reason you’re here in the first place.’ We need more companies and networks to take notice to all talent as HSN did for me. That’s why I love the Powder Group they really help show case a variety of artist. It really is a great organization.

 

How did you start up ElemenTwo and now Marc Harvey Beauty?

MH: I was in Paris with Luminess doing the Beauty Beyond conference. We were the only Airbrush vendor there. Well, I was approached by the top airbrush system supplier in North America. They asked me what it would take for me to leave Luminess. I knew it would take a lot.  Well, they asked me to partner with them and create a private color line. They offered to provide the airbrush systems, and I was to create the product, name it, the color science, everything. And that’s what I did with ElemenTwo.  I was inspired by the desire to create something I wanted out of an airbrush. I got with one of the top chemist in the world that worked for Shi Sheido for 20 years. Took trips to Taiwan to work with him, and it was great. I knew it would be more of a pro line. It had a lot of bold colors that the average person wouldn’t know what to do with. It was a great product, but I knew I still wanted to do more for airbrush makeup.  After realizing it was best for me to part ways with my ElemenTwo partners, I sold my shares in the company. Enter Marc Harvey Beauty. Here I go again trying to reinvent something I wanted in an airbrush product. I also wanted an airbrush that could be used in every look of makeup.  Some people don’t understand that it can be used for every esthetic with the right product. A lot of people relate certain airbrush formulations with certain brands. I want Marc Harvey Beauty to be the go to for every airbrush need and look from bridal, editorial to television and film. I have created a really versatile product that I am excited to share with the industry.   I hope my peers like, Ve Neil, Kevin James Bennette, James Vincent, and Orlando Santiago who supported me and gave me great reviews with ElemenTwo will see how I have found a way to make this product even more versatile. Some of them have already reached out and we have projects in the works so stay tuned!

 How does receiving the recognition and support of some of your successful peers make you feel?

MH: It makes me feel amazing! When I see Valente Fraiser or Orlando Santiago liking a picture of mine, I’m like ‘WHAT?!’ That’s amazing! I do also know what images they would like because I know their styles. I have followed their work. I love that they are seeing the mark I am leaving in the industry and recognizing my work and products. I’ve never thought that ‘yeah, I’m a badass makeup artist’. I’ve always loved the creating process of it.

Do you feel getting recognition from the industry is more important to you than say a million followers on social media?

MH: Ok, so I just started Instagram, I know that’s a shame. With my big personality you would think I would have an Instagram sooner. I have few hundred followers, and I’m ok with that. I don’t need a thousand followers, it’s great if I reach that, but not a goal of mine. I want people just to recognize me for what I’m doing in the industry, or because I inspire them, or they just like my work.

 

Where does your inspiration for Marc Harvey Beauty come from?

MH:   Because I work with more ethnic skin tones, I gain inspiration from finding a variety of colors for them. Also color theory.  I love blending and finding what colors work together and counter act. I love creating products and colors that aren’t already out there. And you may say ‘oh my god, you can’t create something that’s not already out there, because there is a sea of products in the market’. That’s not true. As long as you understand color theory and the color wheel, there will always be something else to create. Because the possibilities are infinite. I just want to create products I love and that I haven’t been able to find on the market. I feel like that’s what I did with Marc Harvey Beauty.  I’m excited about so many of my products coming out, especially my primers and lip creams.

What advice do you have for aspiring artist?

MH: Learn. Always continue to learn.  Because I’m still learning. I’m always trying to stay on the top of my knowledge to create. Never close yourself off.

 

Meet Marc and try Marc Harvey Beauty at The Makeup Show in Dallas,Tx on September 27 & 28. For more information on Marc and Marc Harvey Beauty visit www.MarcHarveyBeauty.com.  Follow him on Instagram @MarcHarveyBeauty

 

Conceal Me

 The most frequently asked  makeup question I get is "What  concealer should I use?" I will follow up with the question "What are you trying to conceal?" This answer matters most.  How you are applying your concealer effects the result and wear of the product as well.

Here are my top 5 picks and best ways to use them. I have every one of these products in my kit  and use them depending on my clients needs.



MAC Studio Finish Concealer will give you the maximum coverage you need. Also the color range is phenomenal. you are sure to find any shade you need or choose a few colors to mix and match in your kit. Depending on how this product is applied it can be anywhere from light- full coverage. For a light coverage apply with your finger only on areas needing  coverage. For medium- maximum coverage apply with a brush  and build and blend to desired coverage. Blending with a sponge, a damp beauty blender is what I prefer, will give you an even and soft finish. This product can be used under the eyes and face. I have found I must always set this product with a translucent powder. I use Make Up For Ever HD powder for under the eyes and Laura Mercier setting powder for the face.  Most commonly used colors are NC20 NC35 NC45 NC50 NW20 NW40 NW50


Make Up For Ever's Camouflage  palettes are my go to when on set. They  are convenient with the perfect shades and correctors in one palette. I must have palette 1 and 4 on hand at all times. With these two palettes I can conceal, contour and do a whole face if needed. Dani Sanz, creator of Make Up For Ever intended this product to be used with your fingers. It glides on smoothly and works great on both under the eyes and on the face. the best way to set this product is with a translucent powder like Make Up For Ever's HD loose powder. The colors are also sold individually at all Make Up For Ever boutiques.  The color I have found to work with most olive skin tones is  #15.

Yves Saint Laurent's Touche Eclat is a Celebrity Makeup artist favorite. Used more as a highlighter rather than a concealer, this magic little pen will brighten up  dark areas around the eye and face. Best places to apply are highlighting areas. You can use this on bare skin or on top of your makeup. I recommend using it over a concealer for maximum coverage and highlight, or on bare skin for a natural and fresh look.  You will get a light to medium coverage and it is best applied sweeping in desired area and using your finger to blend out. Make sure you are using your ring finger when blending along the eyes to use the most gentle pressure on such a delicate area. The light weight formula never leaves you feeling caked, but make sure you select a proper shade. Three colors I keep on hand are 1-3 and 6.





MAC Select Cover Up has been a favorite of mine since I began my career. As a new artist and having to be on a tight budget,  I needed something that would cover, conceal and could possibly be used for a foundation.  This concealer never failed me. You can achieve a light- to full coverage depending on the amount applied. I recommend keeping it to a light or medium coverage.   It is a matte formula,but blended with an eye cream, I usually used MAC fast response, it can work on the darkest and driest of eyes.  The wide color range makes it easy to select a few colors to mix and blend. I prefer to add colors to a palette and use a brush for application. Don't use your fingers for this product. The extra oils from your fingers doesn't mix will with the formula. To set use a translucent powder where needed. Most commonly used colors are NC20 NC35 NC45 NC50 NW20 NW40 NW50

Maybelline's Age Rewind concealer is the best bargain concealer I have found. The sponge applicator is excellent for around the eye area. There isn't as much variety in color as I would like, but great for light to medium skin tones. the light weight formula doesn't crease in any lines and lives up to it's advertising. You can achieve a light to medium coverage, but for best coverage results I recommend applying this product and letting it sit for about 30 seconds before blending. Use a brush or sponge for blending.  Also a great bargain is this concealer in the brightener shade. This works almost identical to the Touche Éclat that I posted on top and for a fraction of the price. Warmer skin tones can blend the brightener with your shade concealer to create the same effect. Use a translucent powder to set if needed. I keep shades light-dark and the brightener in my kit.

Social media take over

 With the growing  followers of social media, makeup artist have found a way to expose their talents to millions by simply posting makeup looks they have done on themselves, and have gained a great number of followers giving them an "Insta" famous status.  You must applaud these makeup artist for taking their passion and making a name for themselves. Success is success no matter how attained and talent is undeniable. What I worry about is the new generation of artist forgetting the hard work and dedication many artist before them put in before reaching fame status.

 My trip to  IMATS ( International Makeup Artist Trade Show) LA this year left me a bit confused on what future artist find to be prestigious makeup artist.  As I waited outside for Emmy and Oscar winning artist's lectures, I noticed bigger lines for Youtube and Instgram artist which left me confused. Are the new artist more interested in the fame or in the true art and skill? Not that I am criticizing any of my Youtube and Instagram artist, I am a fan of quiet a few  myself.  I also think social media has made a lot of my favorite artist more accessible. But, I do worry about future generations.

I have always loved magazines and have quite a collection I have saved through out the years. I have always admired the artist behind the scenes and who worked with so many of my beloved entertainers. I was never one who dreamed of always becoming a Makeup Artist, but I have always had a love for it. When I did come to pursue a  career in makeup I made sure I educated myself on who was who in the industry. I quickly became fascinated with the Avant Guard looks of Pat McGrath and the legendary contour ways of Kevyn Aucoin.  Dick Smith and Rick Baker left me in awe with their history in special effects. It became an addiction and I wanted to know more and more about artist who paved the way.

My advice to future artist is educate yourself on the top artist. There's nothing more embarrassing than being right next to Beyoncé's Makeup artist, who's looks you have copied numerous times on your channel or page, and not know who she is. Give credit where credit is due. If you are re-creating a look, know who the original artist was.

I leave you with a list of some of my favorite makeup artist and who I feel every aspiring artist should know.

Fashion/Celebrity Makeup Artist                                                       

Pat McGrath                                                                               

Kevyn Aucoin                                                                                 

Gucci Westman
Billy B

Fancesca Tolot
Scott Barnes

Sam Fine

Pati Dubroff

Lottie

James Vincent

Luis Casco

Melanie Inglessis

Wayne Goss

Monika Blunder

TV/Film

Geroge Westmore
Max Factor
Jack Pierce
William Tuttle
Dick Smith
Alan Snyder
Rick Baker
Ve Neil
Patty York
Joel Harlow
Sian Richards
Lana Grossman
Jake Garber